Category Archives: Home

Making Kitchen Doors

Five Years Later.

Yes, it took five years to get back to the kitchen. I work as a Carpenter full time so only have the weekends to work on the house, and its a big project, Well the house isn’t big but we are making each room individual, such as the bathroom, (Palletwood floor “The Finish” ) which involved a massive amount of pallet chopping, planing, and sanding.

The original doors in the kitchen were a beige colour, which had looked OK at the time but now looked a bit dated so I decided to make my own. Not as if I haven’t got enough work to do already.

In the workshop.

Surface Planner

Although my wife wasn’t too keen on the idea of me building my own workshop in the garden, In the long run it meant I could make a lot more things for the house and save many monies, plus I now have a man cave at last. ( Lightning & Workshop update )
I had a lot of Sapele leftover from another job so decided to make the doors out of Sapele. One of the first tools I brought, with the kids inheritance money, was a surface planner, a Jointer for our American friends. It allowed me to use more sawn, or rough timber. After running it over the planner I marked up the face and the face edge of the timbers; this is important for later on. I put all timbers through the thicknesser, to 20mm and cut them to 75mm wide on the tablesaw. This gave, enough to plane and sand down to 70mm finish.

The Router Table.

Shaker style Router bit

There was a lot of work on the router table. The router bit I used was for a shaker style door. It allows for both the rails and stiles to be cut with one bit. This is where the face and face edge marks come in handy. I had to run all the stiles through first, with the face upwards, then adjust the height and do the rails with the face down, care is needed to be taken to which will be the inner face and outer face. It sounds more complicated than it is but I marked everything up with tape. The outside of the frame has a small angle on the lip and the inside square. I cut everything to length and finished the machining on the ends. For the panels in the door, I used 6mm Sapele faced ply. With the ply you can glue the panel into the frame because the ply won’t move but if you use a solid timber panel then you cant glue into the frame. This is because the timber moves it will either split the panel or split the frame.
Before fitting the ply panel, it is best to put a small amount of your chosen finish around the edges of your panel because if you do not and the frame moves then you will see part of the panel which isn’t finished.

The Finish.

Finished Sapele kitchen door

Talking of finishes, I used Osmo polyx oil, which is a mixture of oil and wax. I used a clear matt. When I applied the Osmo, I used a non-scouring pad. A scouring pad will damage the wood surface so it has to be a non-scouring pad. I brought mine from eBay, they came in A5 size and I was able to cut them down. It is important to mix the Osmo at the start and during the process because if it stands for a while it will try to separate into oil and wax. The first pad I use I call the applicator, When you rub in the Osmo make sure you get all of it out of the pad, just keep rubbing;  it goes a long way! When finished I rubbed over the whole area again with a second pad to smooth out any drips. If the drip is allowed to dry, it will dry white, so it’s really important to smooth out the Osmo. After the applicator pad got too soaked I threw it away and use the smoothing pad as the new applicator pad and get a new pad for the smoothing pad and carry on till its finished. I normally give it two coats but leaving 24 hours to dry between coats. After cutting the hinge holes, fitting hinges and fitting the doors, crack open a drink of your choice and admire your work. Below is a YouTube video of the whole process I went through from start to finish. After watching if you liked it please give it a thumbs up and if you want to see more of my videos, please subscribe and press the notification bell, It costs you nothing.


Brass Wire Inlay Clock

Not sure if this was a good idea at the time, but deiced to do it anyway. Yes sucker for punishment, I know but it was worth a go.I brought the ,*clock, kit from amazon. It was a cheap kit but good enough for the first go at a clock. I must confess I tried to make a clock before this one. It was supposed to be a segmented clock making it out of strips of Oak, Meranti and Teak.Clock face templateIt didn’t end well, I still used my chisels to chisel the numbers out but because weather it was a bad choice of timbers or the fact i was whacking it with chisels , it kept splitting, so I give up on that one. This clock I decided to make out of one solid piece of Meranti and brought a 1.5mm router bit for my battery router. This was a perfect size because the brass wire I was going to use was 1.8mm. I thought using roman numerals might be easier if I`m going to use the router freehand. Because my hands shake so much, due to some medication, I did a test piece with the router and found that it was more stable pulling the router towards me rather than pushing. I video everything when I do these projects so you can see the good and the bad.I was given a nice piece of Meranti by a friend of my son,( Thanks Micheal ).Compass lines for limits for marking

I first squared up the timber and then put it through the Thicknesser a few times to get a nice thickness to work with.I found the centre point and marked a cross from 12 to 6 and 9 to 3. this gave me grid lines to work with. I marked the same on the clock face which allowed me to get everything in the right place. I put a piece of carbon paper in between the paper and the wood and stuck them down with some nice strong masking tape so it wont move.Now, When I printed the clock face out, I could not get it to print the lines thin enough so I just marked the center of the roman numeral, I do think that things would of turned out a lot neater if I could find a PNG with lines thin enough just for the width of the pen that you are using.To get over the different length lines, I used a compass to mark out the outer most lines of the roman numerals and the inner most. I then routered out the lines as accurate as possible, which is a long job. when I thought that was a long job, Gluing in the Brass piecesit was nothing compared to cutting and dry fitting all the bits of brass wire. After checking a good fit I glued each piece in with a thin C.A glue. Time to sand, I started off with 80 grit sandpaper so it would take off the brass quite quickly, then 120 grit. It was at this point that it was showing up where all the holes were that you couldn’t see until you sanded. Although I thought the joint was ok, buy the time you have sanded half way through the brass wire, it changes shape, something I didn’t even think about. I did the only thing I could, fill it with saw dust and glue. After another sanding with 120g and a final one with 240g that was it. I had some clear coat satin finish left over from the last project so I gave it one coat of that, a quick rub down with 400g just to smooth things out then one final coat.Fixing the clock kit
After fitting the clock kit I noticed the hands were too long, because the hands were made from very thin aluminium, a pair of sharp scissors sorted that out.

As with most of the projects, I could see where I could improve and change things but its the general idea im trying to get across. There is a video of the whole process below if you want to watch. Hope you enjoy, Cheers


Copper Wire Inlay

This idea started off because every year at Christmas time I cant think of anything to buy my wife, so this year I decided to make her something.
I saw a sign somewhere that used a brass wire to make the house name, so I thought that`s it. Rather making a house name for my wife, don`t think she
would be to chuffed with that, I decided to make her a picture of the one thing I have to fight for her affections with, Her horse. I looked for a nice
picture to use and chose a prancing horse.

Now remember this is my first time that I have done this so you will be seeing the mess up I make as the good bits, if there are any. I did go one line for some guidance and most of them were using contact adhesive to glue the picture on to the timber.
I followed this idea but came up to a few problems. Most people were using CNC machines to cut out the groove for the wire so after they have finished
the wire groove, they sanded the paper template of and all is good, unfortunately when you use chisels to cut the groove, the sticky paper template gets pushed down into the groove and is a nightmare to get out.So I come up with the idea of using carbon paper in between the template and the wood. Also the first piece of timber I used was Sapele, now, this is the point I find out that timber selection is a major part of the process, After starting to chisel around the template, when I came to do the hooves they started to fall out and when I tried to chisel around the ears, because it was coming to a point, they started to fall out too. So I thought it must be the timber. I decided to try a piece of Teak, That did the same thing, not the start I was looking for. As a last resort I used a piece of Oak. This was a better move because after all that work, I was loosing the will to live. In the UK the electrical wire is measured mainly in mm2, rather than gauge, the common sizes being, either 1 mm or 1.5 mm for lighting and 2.5 mm for the ring main circuits. I think the measurement is mm area of the cable.  The ears were still a problem but I worked out if you chiseled the first part of the ear, glued the wire in then chiseled the second part of the ear, the ear wouldn’t fall out. After chiseling the whole template it was time to prepare the wire. I have seen on the internet that you can get a two roller press that squashes the wire at an even pressure, but these machines are about two hundred dollars. I don`t know how many times I`m going to do this so it is not worth me buying one so I went the hammer way. I saw a jewelry video where they flattened the copper wire with a flat head hammer so I brought one off amazon. When I tried it out, the hammer felt to light to use on the wire so I used my work hammer, which I`m used to, to flatten the wire and the flat faced hammer I brought, to hammer the wire into the groove. This worked well so I stuck to this idea. As I fed the wire into the grooves I made with the chisels, I would glue in the wire every so often with a thin CA glue which soaked into the wood and held the wire. After finishing the wire work, I sanded down the wire and timber with 80 grit, then 120 and finally with 240 grit. To seal it I used three coats of clear coat spray.I finished it off by fitting a picture frame hanging loop. As a first go it doesn’t look to bad and I think if something looks hand made, it means more than if I used a CNC machine or a router.
I`m going to have a few more goes at this so this might not be the last you see of the wire inlay. Cheers.


Guitar Wall Bracket

3 Guitars.

Oak Guitar Bracket


At home I have three guitars, each one with a story behind it. I didn’t want them damaged with all the work that’s going on around the house, so I decided to make a bracket to hold all three guitars. I found a nice piece of Oak in the workshop so the back board of the bracket was sorted. For the pegs I wanted to use some brass bar that was left over from the slate topped table project.

I also brought some copper bar;  idea being one peg was going to be brass and the other copper. In between the pegs I wanted to do some copper inlay of some musical symbols. The plan was to use the treble clef, bass clef and a quaver. I think it’s a quaver but it’s been many years since I have read music. I have little experience with copper wire inlay so there was always a chance of disaster. In the end I decided to just use the treble clef and the quaver in between the two middle pegs.

Plans don`t always work out.

I used carbon paper to trace out the outline of the treble clef,  then using my carpentry chisels and carving chisels I started to make my way around the shapes. About half way round, bits started to fall out! In the end half of it had crumbled; was the end of that idea. I decided to cut my loses and had a rethink of what to do. I cut two diamond shapes out of some teak  I had laying around and decided to make them just big enough to cover the “incident”. To keep in with the copper brass idea I cut one brass diamond and one copper diamond just slightly smaller than the teak wood; it almost looked like I had designed it that way. Too make sure the sheet metal stayed on the timber I used two part epoxy glue and glued both parts to the Oak board with the same glue.


I sanded all the timber down with first 80 grit sandpaper then 120 g and 240 to finish. I gave the shapes two coats of clear coat varnish and allowed them to dry overnight. To make sure everything stayed in place I glued in the copper and brass pegs in with the same two part epoxy glue.  I then fixed the bracket to the stone stone wall, of the extension,  with some sturdy 100mm 6 screws; fixed behind the guitar pegs and then filled the holes with wooden plugs. Even with three guitars on it the bracket is rock steady and looks nice. Hope you have enjoyed this and below is a video of the whole process that I went through. Any questions or comments please use the video comments section or use the ‘ contact us ‘ sheet on the webpage. Cheers.



Camera Gear I Use For Videos

This collection of equipment is camera gear I use for videos, Its not quite all of it but its the gear I use most of the time, but if I`m videoing in the workshop then I would keep equipment to the minimum. Unfortunately my workshop isn’t that big. Most of this gear is from when I was into photography and just kept adding to the list. There are two items I have left off the gallery, two neewer  CN-576 LED lights. I was using them to photography all the equipment. In the workshop I have set up two Manfrotto Super clamps that can be moved about the workshop so I can have direct light at certain areas where I will be working. I use battery power rather than mains power because having power leads every where is a recipe for disaster, especially in my small workshop. The Neewer LED lights take Sony NP style batteries. I use NP-F970 batteries and each light can take up to three batteries, which will last for hours of videoing and I use a Sony NP-F550 for the monitor. Talking about the monitor, I brought a Freeworld FW760, for around £200 its a brilliant 7 inch monitor which can handle 4k and has focus assist, which is essential for my tired old eyes. Most of the wide shots of the workshop or work area, I use my Nikon D7100 camera, set up on a tripod. For the close ups I use my Sony LX15/10 camera Which I sometimes use on the MOVO Steadycam. I have used, at some stage, both cameras on the Slidecam which I made myself very cheaply and it actually works. I have made a video on the slidecam and if you click on the word you will be sent to a video of the slidecam. For Time lapse I normally use the Gopro 3 Silver. Audio is more important than the video content. Most people would put up with an out of focus video but nobody wants to listen to bad audio with muffled voice and loud back ground noise. I use the Tascam DR-05 to record all my audio. It was about £75 and worth every penny. Although its made of plastic, I keep it in a padded pouch most of the time which I clip to my belt. Because most of my video include working around and with woodworking machinery, I use a lavalier mic. The cable can be tucked underneath a t-shirt and no chance of getting it caught in any machines. The microphone on top of the Nikon is Rode micro mic.I use it to pick up what I`m saying and it gets recorded to the camera. When I put it all in the editing software I can delete the the camera audio and replace it with the Tascam audio which is cleaner and clearer. I use Vegas Pro 16 to edit my videos, not as good as premier pro but good enough for what I use it for. I do love my gadgets and I`m sure in the future this list will grow.

Sand blasted and scorched timber ( Sho-Sugi-Ban )

Sandblasted timber gives a 3D effect
Sandblasted wood

This is another project where I have used reclaimed timber, destined for the skip. At the end of a large building project a company will, throw away vast amounts of timber and other building materials that could be reused in so many other ways. Ninety nine percent of the time, if you ask for timber, the company will let you take wood; it allows them more room in their skip.
The sand blasted timber I used was from an old contract; destined for the skip. They allowed me to take it home to use one of my many projects. I knew where I was going to use it and stored it flat until I was ready to up-claim. During the summer I was finally building my workshop in the garden. As this is the last house we are going to live in, it was time to build. The workshop allows me to put together more projects; I’m also able to make videos in the Winter months as well as the Summer. The days of trying to build and film on the decking ,in-between rain showers, are now a thing of the past. On this occasion I didn’t have a huge amount of timber to work with. I therefore needed to plan out which planks would go where and indeed whether they would look good. I had the head and two sides of the frame to calculate how the different widths, of the planks, would work;  I only had one shot at it. Although I had stored the planks flat and in the dry, they had started to cup quite badly, however this  all added the  authenticity  I was looking for. I decided to biscuit joint the edges, in an attempt to get the planks to lay as flat as I could. I added battens to the back of the planks to stabilise them as well  as possible.When I first got the boards I intended to paint them black but whilst making the video I had the idea of burning, or scorching the wood. I think it was a Japanese technique called Shou-Sugi-Ban. I think there are different variations of this technique including, different thicknesses of burn and different colours of wood. Using sandblasted timber isn’t one I have seen before so I  wasn’t completely sure if my idea would work.

brushing back with a brass wire brush
brushing back
Scorching or burning the wood.
scorching the timber

I therefore  scorched a sample piece as a trial;  it worked out really well and  so that was it, decision made. I first burnt a light coat, scorching more layers ways until I was happy with the end result. Many hours later and smelling of smoke, I had the finished product. Now, how you finish is entirely personal. I then brushed down part of the test piece, with a brass wire brush and liked both, so asked the wife. She preferred the brushed effect so brushing it was to be; my wife is the interior designer for all my projects after all. After much brushing and dusting down, I gave the wooden planks three coats of polyurethane varnish. Because the walls the frame were going to were all over the place,  I had to fix some timbers to the walls in order to fit the frame to something stable. After fitting the frame, I cut and fitted architrave to said frame. 
On the kitchen side I used teak, which had three coats of varnish. On the extension side I used  the  same scorched timber of the frame, but ripped it down to 100mm ( 4 inch ). This also had three coats of polyurethane varnish. This project was the first time I have tried this, Shou-Sugi-Ban technique and it worked.
Below is the YouTube video I made to demonstrate my work; hope you enjoy it and comment if you like.

The Workshop Build

I`ve waited a long time for this build. I have either haven’t had time or the place
to build it but it has become a necessity now so I can build and video more projects
instead of waiting for a nice day so i can video on the decking outside.
Because the area i wanted to build the workshop is on a slant i decided to build it on
stilts. This meant a lot of digging holes and a lot of concrete.
First i marked out the area i wanted the workshop to be then set up some string lines to get the posts in the right position to make my life a bit easier later on.
The day i decided to start the build We had some of the biggest storms this country has seen, so I   was running in and out of storms to try and get it waterproof as soon as possible
so I didn’t get as much footage as I would of liked but had enough for you to get the idea.
To make things go alot quicker I used postmix which is a premix concrete which you just add water.I dug 12 holes in the grid I layed out than placed the posts in the hole.  I plumbed up the post and used timbers to holed it position. The timbers I used were 8×3 inch tanalized timbers bolted together. I also drilled in coach screws with a few inches pertruding out to give a key for the concrete to hold on to.
After fitting all 12 I, leveled across the height I wanted and cut the post down.
I then built a sub floor out of longer lengths of the 8×3 and infilled these with 6×2 tanalized timbers held in place with coach bolts. A layer of 18mm WBP ply and ready to start building walls. I built the walls with 3×2 tanalized timbers 600mm apart. I built the back wall and covered it with 12.5mm
WBP ply. Because it was close to the stone wall I gave it a few coats of Yacht varnish and fixed in position along with the front wall. I then filled in the two sides. I made the back wall 2440 high and the front wall 2100mm to get a fall. I then placed 6×2 tanalized timbers for the roof 600mm apart. Because ply wood is supplied in imperial measurements and plasterboard in metric, it always causes a bit of extra work.I filled the void with 70mm acoustic fiberglass so not to much noise for the neighbours.
I lined the inside with another layer of 12.5mm WBP ply for fixing shelves and brackets and also to stabilize the whole workshop.
Next I wired up the down light spotlights. I chose these instead of strip lights so I had extra headroom. I fitted 12 lights so I had a good spread of light. I decided to use cellotex insulation for the ceiling and then fitted 12.5mm plasterboard.
I ran a 4mm twin and earth cable and a burglar alarm cable through some trunking under ground from the main panel in the house, fitting a 32Amp mcb in the consumer panel and linking in the alarm cable to the main house alarm.
I fitted a 3 way unit in the workshop, one 20Amp for the radial circuit which the sockets were connected to and a 6Amp cicuit for the lighting circuit. Although I did all the wiring and connections myself, I am lucky enough to know a few electricians Which I run it past them first, If they think I`m being a plonker they let me know. If you are not confident to do the electrics
then don`t do it. Its worth getting a pro in who knows what they are doing. I decided to make all the cables surface mounted so no little vermin could start chewing on the cables so easily.I have one double socket with 2 usb ports on it and 3 waterproof sockets on the walls. Finally I covered the outside with bamboo matting to make the workshop blend in a bit more.
Hope you enjoy watching the video and please give thumbs up and subscribe if not already done.


Staircase project and handrail

This was my first YouTube video I published, so I was a bit worried about the whole thing. The actual hand rail came out quite good in the end so was happy with the results. Because we were making a flat above a garage into a house,it meant I had to at some point fit some stairs. I needed some staires quickly so I made a set out of MDF ( to part K of the uk building regs ). I used 18mm moisture resistant MDF and I knew at some point in the future I would need to do something to them some how. I had some 5×1 inch ( 125mm x 24mm ) PAR ( Planned all round ) timber at home I had been saving for something, that something is here. I laminated the pieces together,
alternating the grain to minimize cupping. I used PVA glue but used a small 4 inch ( 100mm ) roller to spread out the glue as evenly as possible. I clamped them in there
over sized lengths and left over night. Next day I started to cut to length and use half lap joints at the bottom of the newel post onto the strings of the stairs.
To make sure I got a nice steady fixing I used coach screws to fix the newel posts onto the strings, also using PVA glue just to make sure of a good fix.
I used a trim router to round over the top edges of the newel post and sanded with 80g sand Paper then 120g sandpaper for a fine finish.I decided to drill the holes in situe because it wasn’t going to be accurate enough doing it pre installation. To make sure I had the holes level and square to the newel post, I clamped my 6ft ( 1800mm approx ) level to the newel posts as a guide. I used my longer Makita SDS drill because it would show up more if I had not got it parallel to the level. I must admit I cheated a bit by looking down to make sure I had the drill square with the newel post and had my camera set at the same level as the 6ft level and looked at the camera monitor to make sure it was level, cheating I know but a good cheat me thinks. The top hole was 25mm, which was for a chrome hanging rail for a wardrobe, next a 22mm hole for a copper pipe,( in the UK, the next was another hanging rail but 19mm chrome, the last was 15mm for copper pipe. Depending on what country you are in ,this might vary a bit. Another trick I used was ,to drill the holes at an angle to the newel post,
I first drilled a shallow hole square on to the newel post then that gave me a guide for my drill bit when I drilled the hole at an angle.
The holes that I drilled at the two newels going down the stairs, I made the top hole twice the depth of the bottom hole so you could push the pipe up into the top hole then pull down the pipe into the bottom hole, knowing it was going to be a solid fix instead of relying on the glue to hold the pipe in position because when you are walking up the stairs you are pulling on the pipe, Which was held in place by the shallower hole, and when you are going down stairs you are pushing on the pole which again you have the timber back stop to rely on instead of glue. The top newel ,which was to close to the next one to get my drill in, I drilled straight through the post
into the next one,I just slipped the pipes through and after gluing the pipes in, I just cut some wood plugs and glued them in. After a bit of sanding and a couple of coats of paint you couldn’t see them at all. Because I wanted the bottom of the stairs to be open, I didn’t want a bottom newel, so I cut a length of 28mm copper pipe, soldered
two cap ends on and used two brass pipe clips to fix to two oak Patrice blocks that was fixed to the wall opposite to the where the newel was supposed to be. To finish off I used Brasso on the pipes to leave a nice shine then sealed them with a coat of metal lacquer to try and protect them.
I have a few videos on the staircase project so I will leave links at the bottom of the page, also if you have any questions or comments about this or any of the other videos, please use the `contact us`form on the web page or in the comments of the YouTube channel, Feel free to subscribe to the YouTube channel for future videos, Cheers.

Slate Topped Table ( Made Of Leftover Bits )


This is a project of bits. I got the slate top from one job, the Oak blocks from another( With permission of course ). The slate table top used to be a fire place hearth so had all sorts of shapes cut out of one side, so the first thing I had to do is cut all that out so it looks like a table top. I used an 9 inch grinder with a diamond  blade. I clamped a piece  of timber on it as a guide.Although I followed the timber, it didn’t give a very good finish. To try and get the finish I wanted, I used a flapper wheel on a 4 inch grinder. That didn’t do much at all so I left that alone and went on to the job of drilling the holes for the studs that were going to hold the top in
place on the Oak blocks. Because I didn’t have specialist equipment to drill the holes, I used a diamond drill bit which was for porcelain or tiles. The drill bit was
supposed to be used in conjunction with a water system, Which I didn’t have either, so being a fan of MacGyver, I cut a hole in a piece of ply the same size as my drill
bit. For my water system I drilled a hole in the top of a bottle and filled it with water, and squeezed. The error in my plan came to light as the drill bit went
through the hole I cut, It then become unsupported, so it decided to go where it wanted, which caused me much pain later on.
After drilling the eight wonky holes I went back to sorting out the edge grinding. I did a bit of research and found a metal grinding disk with encrusted diamond. After
a few goes up and down with that disk, it took most of the big bits out but it still wasn’t good enough for the finishing. Then I came across some flexible diamond disks.
I brought them from Amazon,and they come with a rubber backing pad which fits to the 4 inch grinder, well it would of done if the thread wasn’t wrong, so the inner MacGyverin me came out again, I cut a piece of threaded bar the same size and then just put in the chuck of my drill and used it that way. It was a bit difficult to control at first but after a bit of practice I had mastered it. The set comes with various disk that had velcro on the back. They were sized from 50g to 3000g. I started at 50g and made my way up till I was happy with the finish. Now, the trouble sum holes, the idea was to cut lengths of brass stud and have the brass studs showing as a feature.
But because the drill bit problem, they were a bit baggy, It just so happened that the brass studs slipped into 15mm copper pipe and the copper pipe was the exact size
of the baggy holes, I will tell everybody I meant to do that and nobody will ever know.
I then started to work on the Oak blocks. They had previously been lightly sand blasted, which brought the grain very nicely.To clean up, and bring out the grain a bit more, I used a wire brush bit in my drill and gave them a good going over. After all that work, I measured the blocks and found they were too different sizes, should of checked before, I cut them to the same size and sanded the tops.At the base of the blocks is a rebate which gave the impression that they were floating, so I made them a little deeper to accentuate the illusion. I drilled 2 holes in each block to take the 2 brass poles, which were to keep the blocks in the right place and too make a small magazine shelf.I made the holes a tight fit and glued them in situe. to give the blocks a nice finish and to protect them, I sprayed a few coats of polyurethane
varnish, the varnish was made by Plastkote. I cut the brass studs and copper tubes. I glued the brass studs into the copper sleeves. I only made the copper sleeves the thickness of the slate top. I glued them in with Aradite, a two part epoxy glue. After drying a started to dry fit them to the slate top. as you may remember, my contraption didn’t work very well. Not only did it not drill the right size, it didn’t go straight down either, so I had to grind the stud tops to the right shape for each hole. I had to make sure they were in the right hole because this glue is good, so I had one chance to get it right. After gluing the studs and putting them in the hole, they would slip down the hole so I got some strong gaffa tape and stuck it over the hole making sure it was holding the stud up long enough for the glue to go off.
I decided to not glue the top down to the Oak blocks, considering It weighs about 150-180kg, I didn’t think it needed it because I wouldn’t be able to move it and I didn`t think anybody was going to steal it. I drilled locating holes in the Oak instead. After it was completed I washed and scrubbed the top, then three coats of sealer.
Unfortunately it brought out some staining. I suppose it was a fire place hearth so its probably had alsorts spilt on it.The finished table I shall put a link to the YouTube video at the bottom, If you have any questions please feel free to either use the `contact us` page or put them in the comments of the YouTube video,




Pallet wood clad staircase

When I turned our flat into a 2 story house I had to build a staircase pretty quick so I made a set out of moisture resistant MDF. I didn’t do too much too it knowing I
had to change it in the future , the future has finally come. When I did the bathroom floor with the pallet wood ( Pallet wood bathroom floor )I had a few pieces left over
so I thought I would use them on the staircase to match it in with the bathroom floor.After sanding and hoovering up the MDF, I started to lay the pallet wood out on the stairs
to make sure there was no straight joints and to also work out if I had enough to finish the job. I then wrapped each steps pieces up in tape. I also had the idea of trying to blend the stairs in with the handrail
so I cut lengths of 22mm copper pipe and glued the to the back of the step and it also gave the look of the old fashion Victorian carpet rods, which the used to keep
the stair carpet in place.Before I glued them in position, I polished them with Brasso and gave them a thin coat of metal lacquer to try and keep them looking good for as
long as possible considering the amount of traffic they are going too see.To stick down the pallet wood I got the same rubberised glue I used on the Bathroom floor.
It is Called BONA R850, It is purpose made for wooden floors, because its rubberised it allows some movement. I left a 2mm gap either side of the step for movement and put
some mastic in there to stop dust and bits going in. I chose a black mastic because I was going to paint the strings and risers of the steps black.
Because it was the only way up and down to the top floor,I glued alternate steps so we could stand on the others till they dried then glued the other half. After much
sanding, first with 80g sandpaper and then 120g sandpaper. I ripped down some sapele strips to use as the nosing of the steps. Without it each step blended into each other
which was a bit of a hazard as my wife found out and it just finished it off nicely.I gave it two coats of Liberon hard wax oil to bring the grain out and protect it. I also used sapele to edge the strings of the stairs, any exposed MDF was painted black.
I also painted the skirting black to match it all in. To finish the stairs completely I also used sepele for the shelving around the top of the stairs.
To add a bit of bling and a night light I decided to fit some LED lights.I Ripped down two strips of sapele at 45 degree angle and glued and pinned them to the shelves.
The 45 degree angle was the best angle for the LED lights to shine up the face of the skirting. I brought the LED lights from Amazon. They came with two strips of lights,
The mains adapter, The remote detector and a hand set which you can change the light intensity, light colour and some simple programming. The IR detector needs to be line of
sight to the detector so I just fed it out the top of the skirting. I have put links to this video and links to all the stair project videos down below. If you hove any
questions please contact me through the `contact us` page or in the comments of the YouTube video.