Making Kitchen Doors

Five Years Later.

Yes, it took five years to get back to the kitchen. I work as a Carpenter full time so only have the weekends to work on the house, and its a big project, Well the house isn’t big but we are making each room individual, such as the bathroom, (Palletwood floor “The Finish” ) which involved a massive amount of pallet chopping, planing, and sanding.

The original doors in the kitchen were a beige colour, which had looked OK at the time but now looked a bit dated so I decided to make my own. Not as if I haven’t got enough work to do already.

In the workshop.

Surface Planner

Although my wife wasn’t too keen on the idea of me building my own workshop in the garden, In the long run it meant I could make a lot more things for the house and save many monies, plus I now have a man cave at last. ( Lightning & Workshop update )
I had a lot of Sapele leftover from another job so decided to make the doors out of Sapele. One of the first tools I brought, with the kids inheritance money, was a surface planner, a Jointer for our American friends. It allowed me to use more sawn, or rough timber. After running it over the planner I marked up the face and the face edge of the timbers; this is important for later on. I put all timbers through the thicknesser, to 20mm and cut them to 75mm wide on the tablesaw. This gave, enough to plane and sand down to 70mm finish.

The Router Table.

Shaker style Router bit

There was a lot of work on the router table. The router bit I used was for a shaker style door. It allows for both the rails and stiles to be cut with one bit. This is where the face and face edge marks come in handy. I had to run all the stiles through first, with the face upwards, then adjust the height and do the rails with the face down, care is needed to be taken to which will be the inner face and outer face. It sounds more complicated than it is but I marked everything up with tape. The outside of the frame has a small angle on the lip and the inside square. I cut everything to length and finished the machining on the ends. For the panels in the door, I used 6mm Sapele faced ply. With the ply you can glue the panel into the frame because the ply won’t move but if you use a solid timber panel then you cant glue into the frame. This is because the timber moves it will either split the panel or split the frame.
Before fitting the ply panel, it is best to put a small amount of your chosen finish around the edges of your panel because if you do not and the frame moves then you will see part of the panel which isn’t finished.

The Finish.

Finished Sapele kitchen door

Talking of finishes, I used Osmo polyx oil, which is a mixture of oil and wax. I used a clear matt. When I applied the Osmo, I used a non-scouring pad. A scouring pad will damage the wood surface so it has to be a non-scouring pad. I brought mine from eBay, they came in A5 size and I was able to cut them down. It is important to mix the Osmo at the start and during the process because if it stands for a while it will try to separate into oil and wax. The first pad I use I call the applicator, When you rub in the Osmo make sure you get all of it out of the pad, just keep rubbing;  it goes a long way! When finished I rubbed over the whole area again with a second pad to smooth out any drips. If the drip is allowed to dry, it will dry white, so it’s really important to smooth out the Osmo. After the applicator pad got too soaked I threw it away and use the smoothing pad as the new applicator pad and get a new pad for the smoothing pad and carry on till its finished. I normally give it two coats but leaving 24 hours to dry between coats. After cutting the hinge holes, fitting hinges and fitting the doors, crack open a drink of your choice and admire your work. Below is a YouTube video of the whole process I went through from start to finish. After watching if you liked it please give it a thumbs up and if you want to see more of my videos, please subscribe and press the notification bell, It costs you nothing.