Pallet Wood Bathroom Floor
When I started this pallet wood bathroom floor I knew it was going to be labour intensive. From collecting all the pallets from the sites I`ve been working on, ( with permission of course )
ripping all the bits ot timber down to width and putting it all through the thicknesser. There are 4 YouTube videos with this project, ( Preparing for pallet wood floor )
( Pallet bathroom floor update ) ( pallet wood bathroom floor preparation ). These three are videos of all the preparation that went into the floor, and ( Palletwood floor
“The Finish “ ) If you just want to see the cutting and gluing of the floor then the last ones for you.
Trying to prize all the bits of wood off the pallet was taking too long and I was damaging more than saving, so I decided to just cut the pieces in between the nails which
was a lot quicker. It just meant the floor would be more like a parquet floor.Because it was going to be a bathroom floor I took more time to try a pick out the better pieces
that had no knots or small knots.
I took all the pieces of timber and put them through the table saw, I kept feeding them in and my wife was taking away and stacking. This went on for many hours.
Then it was through the thicknesser, I only planed one side, the rough side acted as a key for the glue. I`m still amazed how a rough piece of timber can go through the
thicknesser and look so nice.I then used my Chop-saw to cut to length and cut out any bad bits I didn’t want.
The next stage is finding where to start, I wanted to start somewhere in the middle so any cuts would be on the outside. I did a dry layout of where I wanted too start and
made sure there wasn’t a silly cut around the toilet position picked, I pinged a chaulk line where I wanted to start and then pinged a second line about 300mm parallel
to the first. This is going to be a guide line because when you spread the glue, your first line will disapear, so you can use the second to measure off 300mm then you
know where the original one is.
The first 3 or 4 rows I dry fitted so I could stagger the joints. The glue is a rubberised glue made for wooden floors. Its called BONA R850. Its applied with a trowl with
seratted edges. When you have picked up your dry fitted pieces try to keep them in sequence and also hoover out the area , you cant hoover enough because if you leave something
under the wood when its all covered in glue is a messy nightmare. After I glued the row down I then scrapped up the excess because if it dries you will be scrapping off dried
rubberised glue for hours so its worth spending a few seconds now. Although I`ve tried to dry the timber as much as possible its still not joinery grade timber. This rubberised
glue should allow it all to move together.
After gluing 5 or 6 rows I pinned the outside rows temporary so it wouldn’t move until it dried enough for the pins to come out. Repeat til you run out of floor. Leave over
night to dry properly. Next morning I broke out the belt sander with an 80g belt on and flattened all the lump and bumps, then I switched to the orbital sander with 120g sandpaper,
After a final hoover I covered it with Liberon Hard Wax Oil. It is made for places with High moisture and high humidity. If you want to lightly sand in between coats that’s up to you.
I know some people were intrested to see how much it had moved over a time so I made another video after 9 months to show how its faired up to the punishment of daily use.
Below I will leave all the video links for you to watch at your lesiure, If you have any questions I will try to answer them, just leave in comments on YouTube or through the contact us form on the website.