The Workshop Build

I`ve waited a long time for this build. I have either haven’t had time or the place
to build it but it has become a necessity now so I can build and video more projects
instead of waiting for a nice day so i can video on the decking outside.
Because the area i wanted to build the workshop is on a slant i decided to build it on
stilts. This meant a lot of digging holes and a lot of concrete.
First i marked out the area i wanted the workshop to be then set up some string lines to get the posts in the right position to make my life a bit easier later on.
The day i decided to start the build We had some of the biggest storms this country has seen, so I   was running in and out of storms to try and get it waterproof as soon as possible
so I didn’t get as much footage as I would of liked but had enough for you to get the idea.
To make things go alot quicker I used postmix which is a premix concrete which you just add water.I dug 12 holes in the grid I layed out than placed the posts in the hole.  I plumbed up the post and used timbers to holed it position. The timbers I used were 8×3 inch tanalized timbers bolted together. I also drilled in coach screws with a few inches pertruding out to give a key for the concrete to hold on to.
After fitting all 12 I, leveled across the height I wanted and cut the post down.
I then built a sub floor out of longer lengths of the 8×3 and infilled these with 6×2 tanalized timbers held in place with coach bolts. A layer of 18mm WBP ply and ready to start building walls. I built the walls with 3×2 tanalized timbers 600mm apart. I built the back wall and covered it with 12.5mm
WBP ply. Because it was close to the stone wall I gave it a few coats of Yacht varnish and fixed in position along with the front wall. I then filled in the two sides. I made the back wall 2440 high and the front wall 2100mm to get a fall. I then placed 6×2 tanalized timbers for the roof 600mm apart. Because ply wood is supplied in imperial measurements and plasterboard in metric, it always causes a bit of extra work.I filled the void with 70mm acoustic fiberglass so not to much noise for the neighbours.
I lined the inside with another layer of 12.5mm WBP ply for fixing shelves and brackets and also to stabilize the whole workshop.
Next I wired up the down light spotlights. I chose these instead of strip lights so I had extra headroom. I fitted 12 lights so I had a good spread of light. I decided to use cellotex insulation for the ceiling and then fitted 12.5mm plasterboard.
I ran a 4mm twin and earth cable and a burglar alarm cable through some trunking under ground from the main panel in the house, fitting a 32Amp mcb in the consumer panel and linking in the alarm cable to the main house alarm.
I fitted a 3 way unit in the workshop, one 20Amp for the radial circuit which the sockets were connected to and a 6Amp cicuit for the lighting circuit. Although I did all the wiring and connections myself, I am lucky enough to know a few electricians Which I run it past them first, If they think I`m being a plonker they let me know. If you are not confident to do the electrics
then don`t do it. Its worth getting a pro in who knows what they are doing. I decided to make all the cables surface mounted so no little vermin could start chewing on the cables so easily.I have one double socket with 2 usb ports on it and 3 waterproof sockets on the walls. Finally I covered the outside with bamboo matting to make the workshop blend in a bit more.
Hope you enjoy watching the video and please give thumbs up and subscribe if not already done.